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Civet
Originally sourced from the anal glands of exotic civet animals (which aren't technically cats), this substance carries a potent and fecal odor. However, it imparts a remarkable radiance and warmth to floral scents. Nowadays, civetone, a synthetic alternative, is used for ethical considerations.
Coffee
Coffee berries are harvested from the evergreen Coffea genus. In perfumery, the coffee note embodies an intense, deeply roasted aspect, often associated with the cocoa facet found in Borneo 1834 (Lutens) patchouli. This note gained renown through its notable presence in fragrances like A*men by Mugler and L'Or de Torrente.
Cumin
This spice carries a notably sharp, bitter-sour aroma that may bear a resemblance to sweat. Its potency can make it a standout element in fragrance compositions, often chosen nowadays to impart an intimate, animalic touch in lieu of actual animal-derived ingredients. Its extravagant use in Alexander McQueen's 'Kingdom' perfume is well-known.
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Musk
There exists a diverse range of materials that impart a musky scent, encompassing both synthetic and natural origins. The natural sources are primarily derived from plants, as obtaining musk from deer, which involves killing the animal, is prohibited due to ethical considerations. Musk is a secretion found within an internal pouch on the abdomen of male deer.
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Nutmeg
Derived from Myristica fragrans, this fruit carries a spicy sweetness with earthy and robust underlying notes. It imparts an oriental spiciness that is more delicate compared to the usual blend of cinnamon, clove, and vanilla found in oriental fragrances. This makes it an excellent choice for lighter, woody scents and those with a masculine touch. Notable examples include Fahrenheit by Dior and Vetiver Sport by Guerlain.
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Sclarene
Sclarene introduces a robust, arid woody essence complemented by hints of camphor and inviting metallic undertones. When applied sparingly alongside musky and amber elements like Ambrofix, it imparts a warm, metallic dimension. Additionally, Sclarene is frequently regarded as a musk enhancer due to its intriguing musky nuances, offering excellent longevity and fixative qualities without an overpowering muskiness. Typically utilized in modest quantities, below 1%, it can be employed in higher concentrations for an exceptionally distinctive fragrance signature
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Tonka Bean
Tonka beans, the fruit of the Dipteryx odorata tree native to Central and South America, contain 1-3% coumarin. Tonka bean absolute, in contrast, contains a high concentration of coumarin, up to 90%. The fragrance ranges from a green, grassy scent to a sweeter blend reminiscent of tobacco and almonds, depending on the quantity used.
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Woody
Comprehensive Woodland Harmony: This term encompasses fragrance elements drawn from a rich array of woody sources, predominantly trees, but also encompassing select bushes like patchouli, and a handful of grasses, notably vetiver. It evokes a symphony of earthy, grounding, and nature-infused scents, weaving together the essence of forests and verdant landscapes.